Tomatillo is an often overlooked heirloom variety. Native to Mexico and domesticated by the Aztecs around 800 B.C., the tomatillo is one of our most ancient food bearing plants.
Growing Tomatillo is similar to growing tomatoes but isn't as heavy a feeder as tomatoes.
Select a growing area with full sun exposure and well-drained, moderately rich soil.
The rule of thumb for sowing seeds is to plant the seed twice as deep as it is wide (or twice as deep as the diameter of the seed). Tomatillo seeds are really small, so don’t plant them very deep – they only need to be planted 1/8″ – 1/4″ deep. Grow at least 2 plants at a time, more if you plan to make a bit of salsa.
My personal rule of thumb is to always plant more than you think you'll will need. This will come in handy if you have pest issues such as bugs, birds, squirrels and even cats. If you produce more than you need or use, you can always store for later or share with friends and family.
Similar to growing tomatoes, Tomatillo sprouts roots along the stems, so it does well when planted deep in the soil. Tomatillo plants grow 3 to 4 feet tall and about the same in width, so space the plants 3 feet apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. Plan to give them support in the form of gardening trellises or tomato cages.
Tomatillo will continue to produce until frost takes over. Although moderately drought-tolerant, tomatillos do best with an inch or so of water per week (more if you live in a very hot climate).
Companion Planting for Tomatillo
We use the same companion planting info for Tomatoes when we plant Tomatillos.
Friends of tomatoes are many and include: asparagus,basil, bean, carrots, celery, chive, cucumber, garlic, head lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley, pea, pepper,marigold, pot marigold and sow thistle. One drawback with tomatoes and carrots: tomato plants can stunt the growth of your carrots but the carrots will still be of good flavor. Basil repels flies and mosquitoes, improves growth and flavor.Borage deters tomato worm.
You know a tomatillo is ready to be cut from the plant when the fruit has filled out the husk. Left to ripen further, the fruit will frequently split the husk and turn yellow or purple depending on its genetics.
We hope you have enjoyed yet another informative growing article here at Mary's Heirloom Seeds. If you have additional questions please ask!
If you've been a customer of Mary's Heirloom Seeds for any length of time, you probably know that we are always ready and willing to answer questions. A common concern is feeding your garden. Specifically, the functions of each one.
I realize that this is a lot of info to put in one single email. If you have additional questions I am happy to help!
This is perfect timing since we're working on a few new instructional videos to help you make your own liquid fertilizer.
If you're growing a veggie garden or you've ever grown a garden then you probably know that nutrients are very important. Sun and soil (and SEEDS) are also important. Nutrients play an integral role in plant health.
Plant Nutrients-Getting Started
Most "all-in-one" type of fertilizers have an "NPK" rating. NPK stands for Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium(potash).
What does each nutrient do?
In addition to other properties, Nitrogen helps plant foliage to grow strong. Phosphorous helps roots and flowers grow and develop. Potassium (Potash) is important for overall plant health.
Minerals are VERY important to healthy plant growth.
Derived from leguminous perennial alfalfa plant used for pasture and cover crop. Primary benefit of this pleasant smelling meal is increasing organic matter, although it is also a valuable plant-derived fertilizer.
NPK analysis is 2.8-0.29-2.4
Contains trace minerals and triaconatol
Excellent addition to the compost pile for nitrogen content and absorbency
**It is important to mention that our Alfalfa Meal is Organic and Non-GMO** If you are looking to avoid synthetic pesticides and gmo derivatives, Organic and Non-GMO is the way to go.
When added to your compost pile, alfalfa acts as a stimulant. It decomposes rapidly, creating heat which helps the rest of your compost to decompose. And your finished compost will have higher nutrient levels when alfalfa is used. Higher nutrient levels in your compost and soil means more nutrient-dense produce in your garden. Bonus, Worms LOVE Alfalfa Meal!
As a garden fertilizer, alfalfa meal is used to increase organic matter in the soil and makes an excellent fast and effective soil conditioner. The high amounts of carbohydrates and protein encourage beneficial soil microbes and earthworms that are responsible for quickly breaking down the nutrients and making them available for use by the plants
Azomite rock dust is a naturally mined volcanic rock composed of over 70 minerals and trace elements that are essential for optimal plant health. The rock formation in Utah from which Azomite is mined was formed when volcanic ash merged with sea water an estimated 30 million years ago. This mixture of volcanic ash and sea water created a unique source of trace minerals and elements that moist soils are void of. Just like humans, plants require many minerals to reach peak health and vigor. Re-mineralize your soil with Azomite and your plants will thank you and reward you!
Contains potash and other minerals from natural marine deposits. Excellent soil conditioner. Greensand is a mined mineral rich in soil conditioning glauconite.
BOTH of these plant nutrients are important for "heavy feeders" such as Tomatoes, Peppers, Eggplant, Pumpkins and Squash
From our website,
Greensand is a mined mineral rich in soil conditioning glauconite
Contains potash and other minerals from natural marine deposits
Excellent soil conditioner
Carrying a formulation of 0-0-0.1
Greensand turns dense, heavy clay into manageable soil. Greensand is a naturally-occurring iron-potassium silicate that can increase soil's moisture absorption by up to ten times.
There are more than 30 trace minerals and nutrients in greensand, with high concentrations of Iron (Fe), Potassium (K), Silicon (Si), Oxygen (O), Magnesium (Mg), Aluminum (Al), Sodium (Na), and Hydrogen (H). These minerals release slowly into the soil in just the proportions that plants need.
Kelp is derived from sea plants and is sustainable. Kelp Meal contains only small amount of N, P, and K (highest in Potash) but adds valuable micronutrients. Kelp Meal also contains vitamins that help increase yields, improve soil structure, reduce plant stress from drought, and increase frost tolerance.
From our website,
Organic Kelp Meal (1-0-2) is dried and ground Rock Weed (Ascophyllum Nodosum), which grows in the cold clean waters along the New England coast, and is known as the best marine plant available for agriculture today
Full of trace Minerals, Carbohydrates and Amino Acids, helping create a strong root systems and makes a very healthy plant
It should be tilled in the soil before planting or can be top dressed, incorporated into potting soils, seed beds and composting material.
Organic kelp meal is ascophyllum nodosum, which is widely recognized as one of the finest marine plants available for agriculture today
It is a natural and cost effective enhancement to any soil fertilization and conditioning program
It is suitable for all crops and applications, and can be mixed with most soil conditioners and fertilizers
BONUS: Sprinkle a small handful of kelp meal early in the growing season around and on the base of squash plants to help deter squash bugs. Do this every 10 days where squash bugs are a problem.
A well-balanced organic fertilizer and a good all-around blend. It is easy to use and ready to apply. pH balanced to counteract acidic soil conditions and formulated to deliver a steady supply of organic nutrients to enhance soil fertility and produce vigorous plants.
Use at any stage of plant's life.
Boosts Microbial Activity
Contains Fish Bone Meal, Blood Meal, Rock Phosphate, Greensand, Langbeinite, Kelp Meal, and Humic Shale Ore
Carefully blended from organic nutrients in the ideal proportions without the use of synthetics, growth stimulants or low quality fillers
Calcium is a component of plant cell walls, and it's needed for enzyme formation and nitrate uptake. Organic calcium can also be used to help neutralize excessively acidic soils, which is especially important when you're growing green, leafy vegetables like lettuce and spinach, or cruciferous vegetables like cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and kale.
Humate is a generic name for humic materials -- salt forms of humic acid. They are most commonly low grade lignite coal. Humates regulate water-holding capacity, have extremely high ion exchange capacities, and reduce soil erosion by increasing the cohesive forces of the very fine soil particles. Very low concentrations of humates have been shown to stimulate seed germination and root growth. They have also been shown to stimulate desirable soil microorganisms.
Mycorrhizae is a fungi that has a beneficial relationship with a plants roots. When Mycorrhizal fungi comes into contact with a plants roots it begins to colonize, or multiply, on the roots and begins to spread out into the surrounding soil. These strands of mycorrhizal fungi effectively become an extension of the roots and can increase the absorption area of a plants root system by 10 to 1,000 times. This allows the root system a more efficient intake of nutrients and water.
They are particularly effective for agricultural plants that have high water and nutritional needs. Over 50,000 University studies have highlighted the benefits of mycorrhizal colonization on the health and yield of plants.
Unfortunately, We were not able to post yesterday so today we're sharing our Coconut Coir info for day 10 & 11. Thank you for joining us for another post in our series, Grow Your Own Food in 100 days or less with Mary's Heirloom Seeds
We've mentioned a few times about using coconut coir in the garden so today we;re sharing about the WHY and the HOW. Here's our video we posted yesterday
We use Coconut Coir Bricks when we plant in containers or seed-starter pots.
From Using Coconut Coir in the Garden "Coconut coir growing medium comes from the coconut's fibrous husk (known as coir) that is bound together by lignin (known as pith). After the husk is immersed in water for 6 weeks, the fiber is extracted mechanically, and the pith is left behind as a waste product and stored in heaps to age. Since the pith comes from the fruit, it is quite naturally rich in nutrients. Coconut coir growing mediums are dehydrated and compressed into a compact form for easy handling. With the addition of water, coir expands to an easy to work with growing medium.
The addition of water increases the volume 3 to 9 times, depending on the packaging of products. This process results in a 100% organic, biodegradable growing medium, making it a natural and safe growth medium of choice for growers. 1.5 pounds compressed brick Add water to increase volume 3 to 9 times!" Use Coconut Coir in compost or worm bins About Coconut Coir
-Coir improves soil drainage in the bed while also helping to retain moisture in quick-draining soils. Since coir breaks down slowly, much like peat, it creates air pockets in the soil that allow excess moisture to drain away from plant roots. The coir itself holds onto some moisture so the drainage doesn't occur too quickly and the soil doesn't dry out completely. These dual drainage and retention properties allow coir to improve moisture management in both heavy clay soils and dry, sandy beds.
-Incorrect Temperature. Different seeds have different needs.
-Old Seeds. When properly stored seeds can have a very long shelf life. But the older they get, your germination rate will begin to reduce
-Incorrect Watering. Water in a necessity for all plants. In the germination stage you need to make sure you keep the soil evenly moist. If you water too much, you run the risk of your seeds rotting before they germinate. If you let them dry out, they will either never germinate or die trying!
-Planting Depth/Light. When you plant your seeds pay attention to your planting depth. This is important because if planted too deep you plants could run out of energy before reaching sunlight. Planting too shallow can lead to drying out. Some seeds actually need some light to germinate, so instead of digging them down you just press them into your soil.
MOLD or ROTTING Dampening off, is probably the most common disease when starting seeds. It’s a fungus that can attack the seeds as soon as they germinate or after the seedling has emerged. You will know this is what killed your seedlings when you notice dark spots on the stem right at the soil level and the seedling topples over and withers away.
-Don't over water
-Provide air movement. A small fan will work
-Nutrients: Use a half-strength, organic fertilizer with tiny seedling. Our DIY Kelp Meal Tea is a great option for tiny seedling. You can use this as a foliar feed as well.
OVERCROWDING For coconut coir pellets, plant no more than 2 seeds per pellet for small seeds and only one per pellet for larger seeds. If both seeds germinate, do not pull one out.
Pinch off one of the seedlings at the base to remove. This will give the remaining seedling a chance to survive and thrive.
Once your seedlings are strong and roots start to grow out of the mesh, it's time to transplant them into the garden or into your containers.
Thank you for joining us for another day of Grow Your Own Food in 100 Days or Less. If you have additional questions please send an email to mary@marysheirloomseeds.com Happy Planting!
Welcome to another day of our series Grow Your own Food in 100 Days or Less at Mary's Heirloom Seeds.
On DAY 5 we discussed basic Nutrient Requirements for veggie garden. Nitrogen was the first macronutrient we mentioned and is the "N" in fertilizer NPK listings.
Nitrogen deficiency in plants can be easy to detect. Symptoms of nitrogen deficiency are yellowing, pale leaves and/or stunted growth. Here's our Day 9 Video making Mountain Flower Compost Tea
Before planting or re-planting, it's a good idea to amend your soil. Homemade compost and aged manure are both great options for free amendments. We have several videos to help you get started.
There is no homemade way how to test nitrogen of soil. If your want to test your soil, you can take a sample to be tested or purchase an at-home tester.
If you don't have access to compost or manure, we have a few organic approved options.
A well-balanced organic fertilizer and a good all-around blend. It is easy to use and ready to apply. pH balanced to counteract acidic soil conditions and formulated to deliver a steady supply of organic nutrients to enhance soil fertility and produce vigorous plants.
Use at any stage of plant's life.
Boosts Microbial Activity
Contains Fish Bone Meal, Blood Meal, Rock Phosphate, Greensand, Langbeinite, Kelp Meal, and Humic Shale Ore
Derived from leguminous perennial alfalfa plant used for pasture and cover crop. Primary benefit of this pleasant smelling meal is increasing organic matter, although it is also a valuable plant-derived fertilizer.
NPK analysis is 2.8-0.29-2.4
Contains trace minerals and triaconatol
Excellent addition to the compost pile for nitrogen content and absorbency
As a garden fertilizer, alfalfa meal is used to increase organic matter in the soil and makes an excellent fast and effective soil conditioner. The high amounts of carbohydrates and protein encourage beneficial soil microbes and earthworms that are responsible for quickly breaking down the nutrients and making them available for use by the plants. For more info, read Benefits of Using Alfalfa Meal
Kelp is derived from sea plants and is sustainable. Kelp Meal contains only small amount of N, P, and K (highest in Potash) but adds valuable micronutrients. Kelp Meal also contains vitamins that help increase yields, improve soil structure, reduce plant stress from drought, and increase frost tolerance.
From our website, Organic Kelp Meal (1-0-2) is dried and ground Rock Weed (Ascophyllum Nodosum), which grows in the cold clean waters along the New England coast, and is known as the best marine plant available for agriculture today
Full of trace Minerals, Carbohydrates and Amino Acids, helping create a strong root systems and makes a very healthy plant
It should be tilled in the soil before planting or can be top dressed, incorporated into potting soils, seed beds and composting material. Organic kelp meal is ascophyllum nodosum, which is widely recognized as one of the finest marine plants available for agriculture today It is a natural and cost effective enhancement to any soil fertilization and conditioning program It is suitable for all crops and applications, and can be mixed with most soil conditioners and fertilizers
BONUS: Sprinkle a small handful of kelp meal early in the growing season around and on the base of squash plants to help deter squash bugs. Do this every 10 days where squash bugs are a problem.
Organic Blood Meal 12-0-0 Depending upon the crops you grow, soil that has been too often planted can start to lose its growing potential. Over time, the minerals and nutrients that plants need to grow and stay healthy become depleted. Blood meal helps restore these lost nutrients and revitalize depleted gardening beds. Blood meal is an all natural powdered fertilizer that contains one of the highest, non-synthetic nitrogen counts (12-0-0) available.
Easy to use
Works in gardens, yards, lawns, and soil beds
Perfect for revitalizing soils that have been heavily worked
Scent serves as a deterrent to common garden pests such as rabbits and deer
Also helps accelerate composting breakdown of carbon based composts such as leaves and straw
5-4-2 Fertilizer Ideal for all plant types, use Mountain Flower Root Boost to encourage expansive root systems, increased crop yields and superior quality flowers, fruits, herbs and vegetables. Boosts Microbial Activity Vegetable and Flowers - 1-2 Tbs per planting hole for new transplants Ingredients: Fish Bone Meal, Fish Meal, Alfalfa Meal, Crab Meal, Shrimp Meal, Langbeinite, Basalt, Kelp Meal, Humic Acid, Mycorrhizal Fungi, and Beneficial Bacteria
Thank you for joining us for another day of Grow Your Own Food in 100 Days or Less. If you have additional questions please send an email to mary@marysheirloomseeds.com Happy Planting!
We're so excited to be Transplanting Seedlings today into our garden.
Thank you for joining us for Day 8 of our series Grow Your Own Food in 100 Days or Less at Mary's Heirloom Seeds. Today we have a 4x8 raised bed that has already been filled with aged manure and soil. We're transplanting Dakota Black Popcorn, Blue Lake Bush Beans and Yellow Scallop Squash. **Once we finished filming we also planted Genovese basil** Here's our video to get started Transplanting Seedlings Since our seedlings were grown outside 100% of the time, we did not need to harden off before transplanting. If you are transplanting seedlings that were grown indoors, I recommend starting with our article Day 7 Hardening Off Seedlings First, whether you're planting in-ground, in containers or raised beds,water the garden area BEFORE you transplant seedlings. I like to give it a good soaking. Plan out what seedlings you want to transplant and where they're going. When we transplant I use 2 soil amendments, Mountain Flower Root Boost (5-4-2) and Micronized Azomite. Another option would be to feed and Organic Liquid fertilizer or Kelp Tea. We do this to cut down on shock to the plants. For this, I used approximately 1 tablespoon Mountain Flower Root Boost and 2 tablespoons Azomite in each hole before transplanting. Prior to transplanting I did not add fertilizer to the bed. You'll need to adjust your own garden accordingly Gently squeeze the bottom of the cup/container to loosen soil and roots. Do not pull on the stem to remove the seedling from the container. I prefer to tip over in my hand and loosen the seedling from the base of the container If you are transplanting seedlings in Coconut Coir Pellets, do not remove the outer mesh. Transplant the entire pellet into the soil and cover completely. Once you've placed the seedling in the hole, gently cover with soil and water very well.
All of our starter cups and containers are washed and re-used for our next planting. You can use almost any recycled container to start seedlings.
Stay tuned for more info on growing your own food! Thank you for joining us for another day of Grow Your Own Food in 100 Days or Less. If you have additional questions please send an email to mary@marysheirloomseeds.com Happy Planting!
Welcome to Day 7 of our series Grow Your Own Food in 100 days or Less at Mary's Heirloom Seeds!
These are the extra Heirloom Corn seedlings that didn't make it into our Mother's Day Garden
So far we have planted heirloom seeds in our raised bed, planned out our garden, watered our seeds and applied cayenne pepper to deter gophers. If you start seeds indoors and plan to transplant seedling into the garden, it is important to harden off your seedlings.
No video today but we have pictures! What does it mean to "Harden Off" seedlings? From our article Hardening Off Seedlings before Transplanting
Hardening off gradually exposes the tender plants to wind, sun and rain and toughens them up by thickening the cuticle on the leaves so that the leaves lose less water. This helps prevent transplant shock; seedlings that languish, become stunted or die from sudden changes in temperature.
Hardening off times depend on the type of plants you are growing and the temperature and temperature fluctuations. So be flexible when hardening off your seedlings and be prepared to whisk them indoors if there's a late freeze and snow.
If you're growing seedlings indoors, they might have been pampered all winter/spring. Aside from the random cat attack or possibly too much watering, they have been relatively safe compared to the dangers that await them in the great outdoors.
This was taken at one of our school garden volunteer days
How to Harden Off Seedlings
Start by putting your seedlings outside 7-10 days prior to transplanting. In the beginning, give them shelter and plenty of water. You can strengthen stem of indoor seedling by adding a fan while they're indoor. This will help to prepare them for windy days outside.
Start by leaving them outdoors for 3 - 4 hours and gradually increase the time spent outside by 1 - 2 hours per day. Bring the plants back indoors, or somewhere warm like a heated garage or porch, each night.
If temperatures remain warm both day and night, the plants should be able to handle the sun all day and stay out at night after about 7 days, Keep an eye out that the soil doesn't dry in their small pots and bake the plants if the weather should suddenly turn warmer.
If you've planted in Cococut Coir pellets, pay extra attention to moisture levels. Coconut coir can dry out faster and might need to be watered daily when outdoors.
If you opt to gradually expose your plants to longer periods of time outdoors, the moving in and out process can be made easier by putting your plants on a wagon or wheelbarrow and simply wheel them into the garage for the night.
Hardening off is an important step is you choose to grow seedlings indoors. It's a bit of work but can be worth it if you want to get a head start on planting if you live in cool/cold climates.
All of my seedling this year are grown outside on a covered patio. That means I don't have to harden them off before transplanting. Unfortunately, we lost a few to earwigs. Fortunately, I planned a head and planted more than I thought I would need so there are extras to make up for any eaten seedlings.
Thank you for joining us for another day of Grow Your Own Food in 100 Days or Less. If you have additional questions please send an email to mary@marysheirloomseeds.com Happy Planting!
Welcome to Day 5 of our series Grow Your Own Food in 100 Days or Less. WE HAVE GERMINATION!
Actually, we had germination of the Early Scarlet Globe radish on Day 4 (3 days to germinate) but I'm sharing the update today. Here's our video update for the day. Today topic is Basic Nutrient Requirements to Grow Veggies
Basic Nutrient Requirements to Grow Veggies Well-balanced soil in the vegetable garden will contain a mix of several important nutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. I call those the basics. However, there are 12 essential nutrients that all plants require to grow. Six of these are needed in larger amounts and are called macronutrients. These include Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), Calcium (K), Calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg) and Sulfur (S). The other six are called micronutrients and they are iron, copper, zinc, boron, manganese and molybdenum. While these are considered minor, there is nothing unimportant about them. From an older post "Feeding Your Plants"
What does each nutrient do?
In addition to other properties, Nitrogen helps plant foliage to grow strong. Phosphorous helps roots and flowers grow and develop. Potassium (Potash) is important for overall plant health.
We've grown HUGE, organic zucchini using our own recipe for Liquid Fertilizer!
Liquid Fertilizers are favored by most gardeners, regardless of what they are growing. We use our own DIY Liquid Fertilizer mix.Most liquid fertilizers can be applied as a foliar feeding directly to the leaves, hand applied to secondary roots, and included in the water supply of drip or other irrigation systems. Aside from cost(and it is not that much), liquid fertilizers have almost no downside. They include all the macronutrients and micronutrients needed for good growth. In addition, because they are in a water soluble state, they can easily be absorbed by the plant. Here's our video for our DIY Organic Liquid Fertilizer recipe
What do the Macronutrients do for plants? Nitrogen (N) Nitrogen is the fuel that makes plants go. It’s used to synthesize amino acids, proteins, chlorophyll, nucleic acids, and enzymes. Plants need more nitrogen than any other element. It’s the nutrient we most often have to apply. Compost and manure are "free" ways to add nitrogen to your soil Phosphorus (P) Phosphorus is the nutrient responsible for plant rooting, flowering and fruiting. Bone meal is one form of Phosporus that can be added to your garden soil. Potassium (K) Potassium is important to plant growth and development. Potassium helps: Plants grow faster, Use water better and be more drought resistant, Fight off disease, Grow stronger and even Produce more crops Calcium (Ca) Calcium helps to retain and transport other nutrients by providing strength and structure through its cell walls. Oyster Shell is an easy option to add to your soil to increase calcium Magnesium (Mg) Helps activate plants enzymes and part of chlorophyll and photosynthesis. Magnesium works in conjunction with calcium
Sulfur (S)
Sulfur is essential for the production of protein and chlorophyll.
Thank you for joining us for another day of Grow Your Own Food in 100 Days or Less. If you have additional questions please send an email to mary@marysheirloomseeds.com Happy Planting!
Sunflowers add so much color to the garden. They're so bright and beautiful, naturally attracting bird and beneficial pollinators.
An annual plant, sunflowers have big, daisy-like flower faces of bright yellow (or red) petals.
Sunflowers grow best in locations with full sun. They are hardy flowers and will grow in any kind of soil as long as it is not waterlogged.
Sunflower seeds, leaves and stems emit substances that inhibit the growth of certain other plants. They should be separated from potatoes and pole beans.
It’s best to sow sunflower seeds directly into the soil after the danger of spring frost is past. Ideally, the soil temperature has reached 55 to 60 degrees F.
Space seeds about 6 inches apart in a shallow trench and sow 1/4 inch to and 1 inch deep depending on the seed size. Smaller seeds don't need to be planted very deep while larger seeds should be planted 1 inch deep.Make rows about 30 inches apart. (For very small varieties, plant closer together.)
Cover and keep watered until seeds sprout in 7 to 10 days.When first true leaves appear (the second set of leaves); thin plants to about 2 feet apart.
Feed plants sparingly; overfertilization can cause stems to break in the fall. You can add diluted fertilizer into the water, though avoid getting the fertilizer near the plant’s base; it may help to build a moat in a circle around the plant about 18 inches out.
Harvesting for flowers:
Cut stems early in the morning. Harvesting flowers during middle of the day may lead to flower wilting
Handle sunflowers gently. The flowers should last at least a week in water at room temperature
Harvesting for Seeds:
To harvest seeds, keep an eye out for ripeness. The back of the flower head will turn from green to yellow and the bracts will begin to dry and turn brown; this happens about 30 to 45 days after bloom and seed moisture is about 35%. Generally, when the head turns brown on the back, seeds are ready for harvest.
To protect the seeds from birds, you can cover the flowers with a light fabric (such as cheesecloth) and a rubber band.
Cut the head off the plant (about 4 inches below the flower head) and remove the seeds with your fingers or a fork.
I hope you have enjoyed another educational article. If you have additional questions, please leave a comment below or send an email to mary@marysheirloomseeds.com
We hope you have enjoyed all of the "growing" and plant spacing articles so far. We are frugal people and I love a good DIY project in the garden that doesn't require spending a bunch of money. A few examples from previous articles include Start A Bucket Garden or our videos about Using Manure in the Garden and Composting Basics with Mary.
So how do we Grow MORE and Spend Less?
As we mentioned above, recycling in the garden is a GREAT place to start.
-Food scraps and yard "waste" can be composted to use as "free" nutrients for your plants
-Recycled containers can be used for seed starting and growing
-If you have livestock or know someone with animals (rabbit, chicken, goat, cow, pig, horse, alpaca) then you might ask them for their manure. Rabbit manure can be used immediately but the rest should be composted for 3-12 months depending on the animal.
-Collect & save water. Rain water, grey water systems and "shower buckets" are great ways to save
99 Cent Seed packs to help you grow more!
Our unique selection of sale seeds and every-day 99 cent packs are another great way to grow more and save. Some of these varieties will grow large, delicious veggies.
The smaller beet on the left is an early Wonder heirloom beet and on the right is Red Mammoth Mangel beet. The Red Mammoth Mangel Beet is known as a "fodder beet" and was picked small at only 3 1/8 lb https://www.marysheirloomseeds.com/collections/heirloom-beets Fodder beets have been around since the 1400s if not earlier. These beets were prized as nutritious animal feed that was easy to store. Fodder beets are hardy, adaptable and palatable. They are ideal for planting in late summer for use as a winter and spring crop. Red Mammoth Mangel Beets produce an incredible mass of edible beet leaves and a large root up to 20 pounds or more in size
NJ Wakefield Cabbage is another great option as each pack contains 200 seeds for only 99 Cents!
The outer leaves of the Swiss Chard can be harvested as needed and it will continue to produce. We have had plants that lasted for a year so you can see why Swiss Chard made the list
I hope you have enjoyed another educational article. If you have additional questions, please leave a comment below or send an email to mary@marysheirloomseeds.com
These were fast to mature and really tasty. I am new to gardening and didn’t thin my seedlings well enough so many of them did not produce much of a root but that’s okay because we definitely got to use the greens! Photos are of the turnips from the garden to my kitchen and the dish we made with them. Some turnips in the photo are not the purple top variety but overall I think the purple top got larger than the others I planted.
This was the first time I have grown greens of any kind and it was a success! The plants are beautiful with the purple veins. I over crowded my raised bed with these accidentally but they still did really well. I started seeds indoors and had a hard time germinating (due to my own fault being new to seed starting) but still planted what I had outside when the time came. I was surprised when I saw the seeds that didn’t germinate indoors started coming up shortly after being outdoors. That’s how I ended up overcrowding my raised bed but on the plus side I now have a ton of healthy great tasting food in my backyard. Photos are of the greens from my garden to my kitchen.
This is my favorite plant in my garden right now. I started my seeds last winter (2022) and planted in spring 2023. My mullein survived the insane high temperatures over summer and was a refreshing pop of green all winter. I am eagerly awaiting the flower!
These are so much fun. They sell out fast and I try to get at least 1 every year. Last year I was lucky enough to grab 2. I love trying new things and these are a mixture of flower, herbs, and vegetable. One of my favorite carrots came from here. It’s one of three that I grow every year because it’s fun!
When I bought these I had the intention of testing Mary’s seed Garlic with the sprouting store bought garlic from my fridge. I will be doing another review later after I harvest and I’ll post a picture then. So planted these in raised beds. Both in full sun and planted in different beds. I did the exact same thing to both. My store bought sprouted garlic all died. My Mary’s is still alive and forming it’s bulbs. This was just too good not share!
