Coconut coir growing medium comes from the coconut's fibrous husk (known as coir) that is bound together by lignin (known as pith). After the husk is immersed in water for 6 weeks, the fiber is extracted mechanically, and the pith is left behind as a waste product and stored in heaps to age. Since the pith comes from the fruit, it is quite naturally rich in nutrients. Coconut coir growing mediums are dehydrated and compressed into a compact form for easy handling. With the addition of water, coir expands to an easy to work with growing medium.
Unlike peat moss, which is highly acidic, coconut coir has a neutral pH level. Most garden vegetables and flowers grow best in neutral to slightly alkaline conditions. When you use peat to amend a garden bed, an addition of agricultural lime is often necessary to combat the higher acidity. With coconut coir, limestone isn't necessary unless the soil naturally has a higher pH level. Coir use results in both a monetary and a labor savings, since you don't need to purchase further pH amendments nor work them into the soil.
-Coir improves soil drainage in the bed while also helping to retain moisture in quick-draining soils. Since coir breaks down slowly, much like peat, it creates air pockets in the soil that allow excess moisture to drain away from plant roots. The coir itself holds onto some moisture so the drainage doesn't occur too quickly and the soil doesn't dry out completely. These dual drainage and retention properties allow coir to improve moisture management in both heavy clay soils and dry, sandy beds.
-Peat moss, which coir replaces as a soil amendment, takes centuries to regrow once harvested. Coir is completely sustainable since it is a natural byproduct of coconut harvests, and coconut trees produce new coconuts every year. Using the coir in the garden keeps it out of the landfill where it would otherwise go. Coir can take a century or longer to fully break down in these landfills, so it's more sustainable to use it to improve your garden soil.
Step 1: Take out your Coconut Coir Pellets. I like to use a large tray
Step 2: Add water to tray and Coconut Coir Pellets. Using warm water might help them "grow" faster.
Step 3: Add seeds to the hole and gently cover or "squish" coconut coir.
Step 4: Place in a warm sunny place and keep moist. This is where the real growing happens!
Common Seed-Starting Issues
-Incorrect Temperature. Different seeds have different needs.
-Old Seeds. When properly stored seeds can have a very long shelf life. But the older they get, your germination rate will begin to reduce
-Incorrect Watering. Water in a necessity for all plants. In the germination stage you need to make sure you keep the soil evenly moist. If you water too much, you run the risk of your seeds rotting before they germinate. If you let them dry out, they will either never germinate or die trying!
-Planting Depth/Light. When you plant your seeds pay attention to your planting depth. This is important because if planted too deep you plants could run out of energy before reaching sunlight. Planting too shallow can lead to drying out. Some seeds actually need some light to germinate, so instead of digging them down you just press them into your soil.
MOLD or ROTTING
Dampening off, is probably the most common disease when starting seeds. It’s a fungus that can attack the seeds as soon as they germinate or after the seedling has emerged. You will know this is what killed your seedlings when you notice dark spots on the stem right at the soil level and the seedling topples over and withers away.
-Don't over water
-Provide air movement.A small fan will work
-Nutrients: Use a half-strength, organic fertilizer with tiny seedling.Our DIY Kelp Meal Tea is a great option for tiny seedling.You can use this as a foliar feed as well.
For coconut coir pellets, plant no more than 2 seeds per pellet for small seeds and only one per pellet for larger seeds.If both seeds germinate, do not pull one out.Pinch off one of the seedlings at the base to remove.This will give the remaining seedling a chance to survive and thrive.
Once your seedlings are strong and roots start to grow out of the mesh, it's time to transplant them into the garden or into your containers.
Take the entire pellet and plant into the garden. For healthier root growth and to give plants a boost, I add a tablespoon of Azomite into each hole and mix into the dirt before transplanting the coconut coir pellet with growing seedling. I also water with a diluted version of our DIY Kelp Meal Tea when I transplant to help with shock.
We hope you have enjoyed our in-depth article about Seed Starting with Coconut Coir. If you have additional questions, feel free to comment below or send an email to email@example.com
I'm starting with Radish because it's one of the first crops to mature in our garden. As long as your soil has balanced organic matter, Radish is an easy crop to grow and usually pest resistant. The Early Scarlet Globe Radish is heat tolerant and matures in as little as 22 days. The German Giant Radish matures in as little as 29 days and can be harvested small and early or let them grow as large as a tennis ball (no joke. I've done it)
If you're looking for a good dual-purpose crop, Beans are your go-to homestead crop. Some varieties can be picked early as a snap bean or left on the plant to mature for a nice dry bean (for soups, etc).
Here's another dual purpose for your homestead. Glass Gem corn for example is a great popping corn and can also be ground to make cornmeal. Floriani Red Flint Corn is a very unique, strong variety for cornmeal. Blue Clarage Dent Corn can be picked and eaten in the earlier stages or grown longer to use as a cornmeal OR chicken treat. Sweet Corn varieties can be used right away, frozen or canned. So many possibilities!
Even the pickiest of eaters might enjoy a nice beet green salad. We grow beets almost year round here on our homestead. The tops make a great salad. Beets can be eaten fresh, roasted or canned. Most Beets mature in 50-60 days, and are somewhat pest resistant. Even if bugs eat the tops, the bulb usually survives. Detroit Dark Red, Chioggio and Golden Beets have been our best producers so far. The Early Wonder is a great early maturing variety.
Onions take about 5 – 8 months to mature from the time the seeds are planted, so you’ll want to begin them early in January or February. If you are in an area that gets frost in winter, plant them indoors in pots or in a greenhouse to give them protection. Bunching onions are a faster maturing option.
Determinate varieties of tomatoes, also called "bush" tomatoes, are varieties that are bred to grow to a compact height (approx. 4 feet). They stop growing when fruit sets on the terminal or top bud, ripen all their crop at or near the same time (usually over a 2 week period).
Indeterminate varieties of tomatoes are also called "vining" tomatoes. They will grow and produce fruit until killed by frost and can reach heights of up to 10 feet although 6 feet is considered the norm. They will bloom, set new fruit and ripen fruit all at the same time throughout the growing season.
Summer squash are usually a faster maturing option. Summer Squash take longer to mature but usually store for longer than summer varieties. Squash is a great addition to your homestead garden since they are heavy-producers and make seed saving a bit easier IF you are mindful of cross-pollination. Black Beauty Zucchini and Golden Crookneck are our homestead favorites. Spaghetti Squash and Butternut Squash are Winter Squash favorites.
Give Peas a chance! But first, decide what type of pea you'd like. Southern Peas, also called Crowder Peas are not your garden variety peas. Southern Peas are used like you would a dry bean. Our homestead favorite is the Whippoorwill Southern Pea. Then you have Garden Peas, also called Shelling Peas, and these are great for canning and soups. Sugar, Snow and Snap Peas are useful for homesteaders as well.
There are so many unique veggies available, too many to list in a single article. We've gone over a few of our favorites. We'd love to hear from YOU about your favorite homestead crops.
If you have a short growing season or want to get a head start, plant watermelon seeds indoors in individual containers or pots. We recommend using coconut coir pellets, which can be planted directly in the garden with minimal transplant shock. Plant one to two seeds per pot.
Sow watermelon seeds in hills or rows. For regular watermelons, sow three to four seeds per hill, spacing the hills eight to ten feet apart. Space the rows ten feet apart or more, if you have room. Thin watermelon seedlings in each hill, to two seedlings one week after they have germinated. When planting in rows, space the seeds four to six inches apart and thin seedlings to ten to twelve inches apart. For bush varieties, final spacing can be cut in half or even more if you are tight for space. Days to Germinate: 3-5 days Days to Harvest: 65-85 days
Watermelon prefers full sun for healthy, strong vines.
Companion plants for Watermelon
Planting corn with your watermelon will provide shade for the plants during the hottest time of the day. Allow about a foot between the corn plants so the watermelon plants still receive enough sun.
Young melon plants are susceptible to insect invasion, especially cucumber beetles. Once the plants mature, they can tolerate some leaf loss due to insects, but keeping companion plants nearby helps control swarms of pests. Cass County Master Gardeners recommend marigold, oregano and nasturtium as companion plants for melons.
from almanac.com, Dr. Bill Rhodes, professor of horticulture at Clemson University, offers the following advice on how to tell if watermelons are ripe:
Thump it. If the watermelon sounds hollow, it's ripe.
Look at the color on the top. The watermelon is ripe when there is little contrast between the stripes.
Look at the color on the bottom. A green watermelon will have a white bottom; a ripe melon will have a cream- or yellow-colored bottom.
Press on it. If the watermelon sounds like it gives a little, it's ripe. (Rhodes doesn't like this method because it can ruin the quality of the fruit.)
Check the tendril. If it's green, wait. If it’s half-dead, the watermelon is nearly ripe or ripe. If the tendril is fully dead, it's ripe or overripe; it’s not going to get any riper, so you might as well pick!
Stems should be cut with a sharp knife close to the fruit.
Watermelons can be stored uncut for about 10 days. If cut, they can last in the refrigerator for about 4 days. Wrap tightly in plastic.
Chicory greens have long, broad, dandelion-like leaves with an asparagus-like flavor. A rapid grower, the leaves and tender spring stalks can be used as early greens. Germination: 45-70 days Days to Maturity: 52-80 days
About Dandelion Dandelion greens contain vitamin C, potassium, calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, thiamin, riboflavin, beta carotene and fiber. They are actually more nutritious than most of the fruits and vegetables you can buy in the grocery store. It is also touted as being beneficial to your liver, kidneys, blood and digestion. Not to mention that it supposedly helps with acne, weight-loss, blood pressure and cholesterol levels. It is nearly a perfect food.
From Global Healing Center HERBAL PROPERTIES AND USES: Highly nutritious and known to treat a variety of ailments, dandelion is a great plant to grow in your garden. From heart problems to acne, liver diseases to eye conditions, most people are unaware that this weed has higher amounts of potassium than bananas and more vitamin A than carrots. Dandelion is also reported to have anti-rheumatic capacities. It is also a powerful diuretic with additional laxative properties. Good for hepatic and gallbladder conditions, digestive complaints, as well as general constipation.
Growing Dandelion from Seed Because dandelion is considered a weed, it doesn't take much effort to grow. If you're looking for a low-maintenance garden green.
Plant seeds directly in the garden 1/4 inch deep in the soil in single rows, about 8 inches. Plant the dandelion seeds in early spring in well-drained, fertile soil. Harvesting Dandelion Never harvest dandelions from a location that is near a road or has been treated with pesticides or other chemicals. Harvest leaves as needed when they are a usable size.
I grow everything from seed! It's not that difficult and that way I know exactly what I'm getting from start to finish. All of the seeds I plant (from Mary's Heirloom Seeds) are untreated, organic, non-gmo heirloom seeds. Starting Garden Huckleberry from Seed Plant seeds in moist soil and cover with approx 1/4 inch of soil. Seeds should germinate within 2 weeks. Seedlings should receive at least five hours of sun every day. I start seeds in my laundry room where I have large windows and plenty of space. Once the seedlings grow about 2 inches tall they will be transplanted to large pots.
Plants should be bushy. This one needed more fertilizer or compost.
Growing Conditions for Garden Huckleberry Garden Huckleberries like rich soil and partial shade. Adding compost or chicken manure will increase the plant yield. I plant my Huckleberry when I plant my tomatoes and fertilize the same as well. Growing Huckleberries are very easy and not much bothers the plant. The plants have some cold tolerance and fruit may continue to ripen after light frosts.
Small basket of berries from 1 bush
Green fruit are mildly poisonous, just like potato leaves or green potatoes. The fruits do not taste like much when picked, sometimes they can can be bitter. A pleasing berry taste does come through surprising well when it is cooked with sugar. It can be used as a viable substitute for blueberries in pies, jams and syrup. Pests This year I have found several tomato hornworms on my huckleberry plants. I recommend planting Borage (an edible herb) around your Tomatoes AND Huckleberry plants to deter hornworms.
THESE are Tomato Hornworms and they get even bigger!
Diatomaceous Earth will help with any aphid issues you might have in the garden. Garden huckleberry can be mistaken for deadly nightshade, which is poisonous, so make sure of its identity before eating. I grow mine from a trusted seed source. • Garden huckleberry's self-sown seedlings will provide you with new plants. Pull out all unwanted seedlings each year or they'll be everywhere. Harvesting Garden Huckleberries Pick the berries when they are no longer shiny; ripe berries are usually a dull black or blue-black. Cook the fully ripe berries before eating; they may need a pinch of baking soda to remove bitterness. Add sugar to taste and some freshly grated lemon zest and lemon juice to brighten the flavor.
You can purchase heirloom Garden Huckleberry seeds
are a cool weather crop. Hot temperatures can reduce head development.
In summer you can cover the head with the plants leaves.
growing Cauliflower, the soil should be prepared well in advance,
especially if you are enriching the soil with organic matter. If you
are sowing the cabbage seeds in spring, prepare the soil in autumn by
digging in plenty of well-rotted compost or manure. The soil should
have been dug deep. Cauliflower grows well in loamy, well drained soils.
the seeds at 1/4-1/2 inch deep. About 6 weeks after sowing the seedlings
they should be ready to harden off before planting out. Harden the
seedlings off a week before planting out by gradually increasing the
amount of time the plants are left outside and the amount of sun the
85-95 days. Indeterminate. This heirloom tomato variety can grow to over 1 pound fruits and are delicious. They have brilliant, neon-green flesh with a strong, sweet, and fruity flavor, much tastier than most red tomatoes. This family heirloom from Germany is beautiful.
85 days. Stunning, perfectly shaped, deep purplish-brown fruit that are almost black. A great variety for both home gardeners and chefs. This paste-type tomato looks like a Roma tomato but has the taste profile of a Beefsteak tomato, with sweet, rich, and earthy flavors.
70 days. This Oxheart type Italian heirloom has been a favorite in Italy for many years. Beautiful 12-oz. fruit have a delicious sweet taste; similar to the shape of a heart; great for fresh eating or cooking. Large vigorous vines.
70-75 days. Determinate. Here is a stunning tomato, an elongated paste tomato that is creamy white to pale yellow in color. The sweet flavor should be a hit with gourmet chefs. Bushy plants are quite productive. Great for containers.
80-85 days. Indeterminate. Produces large, up to 1-lb, creamy white fruit, this tomato is wonderful. The medium-tall plants are less viney and mature earlier than other white heirloom tomato varieties.
Hillbilly is a stunning bicolor beefsteak tomato, excellent for slicing. These hefty, yellow-gold 1 pound tomatoes are streaked with red on the blossom end. Hillbilly is sweet and juicy, great for slicing. Heavy production means it needs sturdy staking.
90 days. Indeterminate. This famous tomato has almost a cult following among seed collectors and tomato connoisseurs. They simply cannot get enough of this variety's amazing flavor that is so distinctive, sweet and smokey. 7-10 oz. fruit are a black-brick color. Named in honor of Paul Robeson, an equal rights advocate. This Russian heirloom was lovingly named in his honor. As this tomato variety originates from Russia, and sets fruits at lower temps, it is an excellent choice for cooler growing regions.
80days. Indeterminate. Plant produces high yields of large 4" long purplish-black plum tomatoes. Delicious purplish, egg-shaped fruit are smooth and perfect. This variety will make market gardeners and chefs happy, as this Ukrainian heirloom is at the top of its class and a favorite of our grower. The plants are very productive; fruit weigh about 6 ounces.
We offer so many amazing Seed Combo Packs and Starter Kits at Mary's Heirloom Seeds. However, we recently asked on our fb page what our customers would like to see in a combo pack. Several stated that smaller combo packs and starter kits would be appreciated... So we added MORE! Check out these NEW Kits!!!
For those of you just getting started and looking for guidance, we have created a special "kit" just for you. This starter pack includes PRINTED instructions from some of our more popular articles and tutorials as well as seeds, germination supplies, organic pest control and organic soil amendments Includes SEEDS from Mary's Garden Pack, Companion Seeds: Borage, Nasturtium, Marigold Basil Choose from 50 or 100 coconut coir pellets 10 plant markers 2 ounces Organic Neem Oil 1 pound Mary's Organic Plant Food 1 pound Azomite
2 GARDEN TOOLS: CULTIVATOR IS 9" LONG --- SPADE IS 10" LONG WOOD HANDLES & A HANDY LEATHER LOOP TO HANG ON PEGBOARD HOOK
Looking to start a garden but not sure where to start? Looking for a fun gift idea for just about any age? You choose the seed combination using the drop down menu. Each stater kit includes: -SEEDS -12 Coconut Coir Pellets -Plant Markers -Basic planting instructions with detailed instructions available on our GROWING TIPS & VIDEOS page SEEDS OPTIONS: 1. Mortgage Lifter Tomato, Large Leaf Basil & Black Beauty Zucchini 2. Cal Wonder Bell Pepper, Large Leaf Basil & Tom Thumb Lettuce 3. Black Beauty Eggplant, Pink Icicle Tomato & Large Leaf Basil
Make wonderful homemade Pizza fresh from the garden! One packet of each. Includes: -Thessaloniki Tomato -Cal Wonder Bell Pepper -Oregano -Basil Option 1: Seeds only Option 2: Starter Kit Starter kit Includes 16 starter pellets, plant markers and 2 garden tools CULTIVATOR IS 9" LONG --- SPADE IS 10" LONG WOOD HANDLES & A HANDY LEATHER LOOP TO HANG ON PEGBOARD HOOK
Not new but should be mentioned are the original starter kits