Seed Starting with Coconut Coir Pellets Posted on 25 Feb 07:31 , 0 comments

We've shared about Using Coconut Coir in the Garden here in several articles but we've had quite a bit of questions.  Today we're going a bit more in-depth.
First, Why do we use Coconut Coir instead of Peat?

Coconut coir growing medium comes from the coconut's fibrous husk (known as coir) that is bound together by lignin (known as pith). After the husk is immersed in water for 6 weeks, the fiber is extracted mechanically, and the pith is left behind as a waste product and stored in heaps to age. Since the pith comes from the fruit, it is quite naturally rich in nutrients. Coconut coir growing mediums are dehydrated and compressed into a compact form for easy handling. With the addition of water, coir expands to an easy to work with growing medium.

Unlike peat moss, which is highly acidic, coconut coir has a neutral pH level. Most garden vegetables and flowers grow best in neutral to slightly alkaline conditions. When you use peat to amend a garden bed, an addition of agricultural lime is often necessary to combat the higher acidity. With coconut coir, limestone isn't necessary unless the soil naturally has a higher pH level. Coir use results in both a monetary and a labor savings, since you don't need to purchase further pH amendments nor work them into the soil.

-Coir improves soil drainage in the bed while also helping to retain moisture in quick-draining soils. Since coir breaks down slowly, much like peat, it creates air pockets in the soil that allow excess moisture to drain away from plant roots. The coir itself holds onto some moisture so the drainage doesn't occur too quickly and the soil doesn't dry out completely. These dual drainage and retention properties allow coir to improve moisture management in both heavy clay soils and dry, sandy beds.

-Peat moss, which coir replaces as a soil amendment, takes centuries to regrow once harvested. Coir is completely sustainable since it is a natural byproduct of coconut harvests, and coconut trees produce new coconuts every year. Using the coir in the garden keeps it out of the landfill where it would otherwise go. Coir can take a century or longer to fully break down in these landfills, so it's more sustainable to use it to improve your garden soil.

Step 1: Take out your Coconut Coir Pellets.  I like to use a large tray

Step 2: Add water to tray and Coconut Coir Pellets.  Using warm water might help them "grow" faster.
Step 3: Add seeds to the hole and gently cover or "squish" coconut coir.

Step 4: Place in a warm sunny place and keep moist.  This is where the real growing happens!

Common Seed-Starting Issues


-Incorrect Temperature. Different seeds have different needs.

-Old Seeds. When properly stored seeds can have a very long shelf life. But the older they get, your germination rate will begin to reduce

-Incorrect Watering. Water in a necessity for all plants. In the germination stage you need to make sure you keep the soil evenly moist. If you water too much, you run the risk of your seeds rotting before they germinate. If you let them dry out, they will either never germinate or die trying!

-Planting Depth/Light. When you plant your seeds pay attention to your planting depth. This is important because if planted too deep you plants could run out of energy before reaching sunlight. Planting too shallow can lead to drying out. Some seeds actually need some light to germinate, so instead of digging them down you just press them into your soil.


Dampening off, is probably the most common disease when starting seeds. It’s a fungus that can attack the seeds as soon as they germinate or after the seedling has emerged. You will know this is what killed your seedlings when you notice dark spots on the stem right at the soil level and the seedling topples over and withers away.

-Don't over water

-Provide air movement.  A small fan will work

-Nutrients: Use a half-strength, organic fertilizer with tiny seedling.  Our DIY Kelp Meal Tea is a great option for tiny seedling.  You can use this as a foliar feed as well.


For coconut coir pellets, plant no more than 2 seeds per pellet for small seeds and only one per pellet for larger seeds.  If both seeds germinate, do not pull one out.  Pinch off one of the seedlings at the base to remove.  This will give the remaining seedling a chance to survive and thrive.
Once your seedlings are strong and roots start to grow out of the mesh, it's time to transplant them into the garden or into your containers.
Take the entire pellet and plant into the garden.  For healthier root growth and to give plants a boost, I add a tablespoon of Azomite into each hole and mix into the dirt before transplanting the coconut coir pellet with growing seedling. I also water with a diluted version of our DIY Kelp Meal Tea when I transplant to help with shock.
We hope you have enjoyed our in-depth article about Seed Starting with Coconut Coir.  If you have additional questions, feel free to comment below or send an email to


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Using Coffee Grounds in the Garden Posted on 23 Feb 17:59 , 0 comments

We've discussed recycling and composting in the garden a few times.  There are many benefits of composting not just for the garden but also for our planet!

Before we get started with coffee grounds,
I need to mention that we just offered a 99 CENT SEED SALE
at Mary's Heirloom Seeds thru March 1st.  CLICK HERE for details.


If you drink coffee, you NEED to read this!  Hey, even if you don't drink coffee, you probably know someone who does and would be willing to share their coffee grounds

Composting coffee grounds is easy!  Just throw them into your compost pile or bin.  Used coffee filters can be composted as well, preferably unbleached.  If you add coffee grounds, this is considered "green material" so you'll need to balance with "brown material."

Coffee Grounds can be used as a fertilizer as it adds organic material to the soil.  This can improve drainage and water retention.  Bonus, spent coffee grounds attract earthworms!

There are many uses for Coffee Grounds in the garden.

Many gardeners like to use used coffee grounds as a mulch for their plants. Other used for coffee grounds include using it to keep slugs and snails away from plants. The theory is that the caffeine in the coffee grounds negatively affects these pests and so they avoid soil where the coffee grounds are found. Some people also claim that coffee grounds on the soil is a cat repellent and will keep cats from using your flower and veggie beds as a litter box. You can also use coffee grounds as worm food if you do vermicomposting with a worm bin. Worms are very fond of coffee grounds. 

Decomposing coffee grounds have their own fungal and mold colonies and those fungal colonies tend to fight off other fungal colonies. If this seems weird, just remember that the antibiotic penicillin was developed from a mold. The world of teeny, tiny things is fighting for space and resources just as fiercely as the world of big, visible things, and you can use that to your advantage.

Disease suppression

As they decompose, coffee grounds appear to suppress some common fungal rots and wilts, including Fusarium, Pythium, and Sclerotinia species. In these studies, coffee grounds were part of a compost mix, in one case comprising as little as 0.5 percent of the material. Researchers suggest that the bacterial and fungal species normally found on decomposing coffee grounds, such as non-pathogenic Pseudomonas,Fusarium,  andTrichodermaspp. and pin molds (Mucorales), prevent pathogenic fungi from establishing. A similar biocontrol effect was noted on bacterial pathogens including E. coliand Staphylococcusspp., which were reduced on ripening cheeses covered with coffee grounds.

Effects on plant growth

Given their antimicrobial activity, it’s not surprising that attempts to cultivate mushrooms in coffee grounds have been variable and species-specific. Likewise, their effects on plant growth are unpredictable.  Coffee ground composts and mulches have enhanced sugar beet seed germination and improved growth and yield of cabbage and soybeans. It’s been an effective replacement for peat moss in producing anthuriums. Increases in soil nitrogen as well as general mulching benefits, such as moderating soil temperature and increasing soil water, are proposed mechanisms for these increases.

Using Coffee Grounds in the Garden

-Toss them in the compost

-Add them to your vermicompost (worm bins)

-Add directly to soil for organic matter

-Mulch with coffee grounds

-Add to you Organic liquid fertilizer

-Mix with carrot seeds to improve germination and soil aeration

There you have it!  Do you use Coffee Grounds in the garden?

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NEW 99 Cent SEED SALE Posted on 23 Feb 17:42 , 0 comments

I love these announcements!!!
We've added MORE new heirloom seeds @ Mary's Heirloom Seeds!

Greens and squash are a few of our garden favorites.  They are easy to grow and usually offer a tremendous harvest.  Swiss Chard for example can be harvested for months (even a year).  Our squash is usually so prolific that we are constantly giving it away by the bucketful!

Take a look at these beautiful new varieties. 

They're only 99 cents a pack thru MARCH 1st.

COCONUT COIR PELLETS are also on sale thru March 15


45 days.  Bibb is a fabulous tasting lettuce that is crisp, clean and easy to grow.  Bibb will hold longer in the heat than  Buttercrunch Bibb, yet still grows quickly in our cool weather.

 90 days.  Banana Melon produces a fruit that is long (18"-20") and shaped sort of like a torpedo.  Not what you would normally think of as a melon shape.  Fruit can weigh in excess of 5lbs. It has blue-grey skin that turns yellow as it matures.  Banana melons are smooth with very little netting.  In 1889 it was commonly available at farmer's markets in Philadelphia, New York and Boston.

An early ball-head type heirloom cabbage, Copenhagen Market is an excellent cabbage  that has been an favorite of gardeners, market growers and cabbage fans all over the world.  Copenhagen Market has literally set the standard as the model for all commercial cabbage varieties developed since.
Copenhagen Market produces a heavy yield of 4 to 5 pound, 7 inch round heads of cabbage.  Height of the plant is about 12-14" and width is about 25".

(Indeterminate) Heirloom from farmers in a Lebanese hill town. Huge pink beefsteak tomato: fruits typically weigh 16-24 oz., or even larger when well grown. A good choice for a gardener’s boast or county fair entry. Has a multidimensional sweet flavor that seems to be expressed best in northern areas. In southern areas the quality is more variable. Good foliage disease resistance.

55 days.  This patty pan type of squash dates back to the early 1900s.  The fruits are a greyish-green tint and have deeply scalloped edges.
Benning's Green Tint Scallop Squash can get pretty big but they are best harvested around 3-4 inches in diameter.

55 days.  Sugar Ann is considered one of the best early snap peas around.        
Dwarf vines only reach 2' long (not a bush), but are loaded with sweet, crisp, 2 1/2" peas.  Perfect for those with limited planting space.  We simply cannot get enough of these for stir fries.  They are so crisp and sweet we eat them raw in salads as well.

2 VARIETIES that aren't NEW but we've decided to offer
on sale as well thru MARCH 1st.

Don't miss out on our special on


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How to Cook Spaghetti Squash Posted on 23 Feb 08:13 , 0 comments

We love Spaghetti Squash!  It's easy to grow and so delicious to eat.  If you're not sure about growing your own, you can always purchase a few at your local farmer's market to try.

Have you ever prepared Spaghetti Squash?  It's easy!
1. Cut squash lengthwise (I cut in 4 to cook faster)
2.  Bake *rind side up* in the over @ 375 for 30-40 minutes.  
You can microwave on high for 8 minutes but I don't recommend it. 
When the squash is cooked it comes off the rind with a fork and looks like spaghetti noodles!
With this little (big) gem I made 3 separate meals for my husband and I.
I am so excited about how these meals turned out I think I'm going to go out and plant a few Spaghetti Squash seeds!!! 

First I baked it and then added Chimi Churi sauce that I also purchased @ the farmer's market.  YUM!  You can use Spaghetti Squash just as you would spaghetti noodles.  I LOVE it with Pesto!

Next I baked it, then added cheese and basil.  YUM!
Last night I topped my homemade pizza with the leftover squash.  Delish!

Sadly, I didn't take many pictures.

HEIRLOOM TOMATO ANNOUNCEMENT & SALE Posted on 15 Feb 06:55 , 1 comment

We sent this out yesterday to our e-mail list but thought it would be nice to share to our blog as well.  Happy Planting!

Mary's Heirloom Seeds
Quick Links
Join Our List
A few favorites @MARY'S HEIRLOOM SEEDS
February 14, 2017
We are SUPER excited to announce the addition of several new (to us)
As promised, we're continuing to add heirloom varieties to our already unique selection at Mary's Heirloom Seeds.  As an added bonus, the varieties we are announcing today are on Sale thru February 19th!

HEIRLOOM TOMATO SEEDS added today!!!    

Seeds listed in this section are ON SALE thru February 19th.  
We have a $10 order minimum 
with the free shipping option. 
*Excellent for HOT climates*
If you're wondering what to plant, 
check out our
Also ON SALE thru February 19th @ Mary's Heirloom Seeds

If you have additional questions please feel free to ask. 


Happy Planting,


Mary's Heirloom Seeds, P. O. Box 3763, Ramona, CA 92065

February Planting Guide for the US-Find Your Region Posted on 07 Feb 04:51 , 0 comments

Mary's Heirloom Seeds
Quick Links
Join Our List
February 6, 2017
In case you missed it, we offer region specific planting guide for entire year on our blog
Mary's 2017 Planting Guide

I don't know about you but sometimes even I need a reminder of what to plant next month.  Plus, we're always offering new specials and posting new seed varieties.

**Don't forget, we have a 50% Off Sale going on thru February 10th**


**Please keep in mind that this is a general recommendation for each region listed.  If your area is experiencing unusually extreme changes in weather you'll need to adjust and plant accordingly**


Sow Indoors:  Swiss Chard, Eggplant, Fennel, Peppers, Bunching Onions (Scallions), Tomatoes, Basil and Chives.
Sow Outdoors: Arugula, Artichoke, Asparagus, Beets, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrot, Cauliflower, Chinese Cabbage, Collards, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Bulbing Onion, Bunching Onion, Peas- Snow & Snap, Potatoes, Radish, Rutabaga,  Spinach and Turnips
Indoor  HERBS: Cilantro, Dill, Fennel, Oregano, Parsley, Sage, Sorrel, Tarragon and Thyme.

Sow indoors in early February. Sow Outdoors in late February: Arugula, Asparagus, Basil, Beets, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Chard, Cilantro, Chives, Endive, Leeks, Lettuce, Mustard, Parsley, Peas, Radish

Arugula, Bush & Pole Beans, Beets, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrot, Cauliflower, Celery, Collards, Corn, Cucumber, Eggplant, Kale, Kohlrabi, Leek, Lettuce, Melon, Okra, Onion, Rutabaga, Pea, Pepper, Pumpkin, Radish, Summer Squash, Swiss Chard, Tomato and Watermelon

*Plant indoors if February is before your last frost date*
Arugula, Artichoke, Asparagus, Beans, Beets, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Carrots, Celery, Chinese Cabbage, Swiss Chard, Eggplant, Endive, Fennel, Kale, Kohlrabi, Leeks, Lettuce, Melons, Mustard, Onions, Peas- English & Garden, Radish, Radicchio, Scallions, Sorrel and Spinach. For warmer parts of the gulf coast: Peppers, Squash, Tomatoes and Watermelon.

FLORIDA has been split in 3 regions 

Arugula, Bush & Pole Beans, Lima Beans, Cantaloupes, Carrots, celery, Chinese Cabbage, Collards, Sweet Corn, Cucumber, Eggplant, Endive, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Mustard, Okra, Bunching Onions, Peas-Snow or English, Southern Peas, Peppers, Sweet Potatoes, Radish, Spinach, Summer Squash & Winter Squash, Swiss Chard, Tomatoes and Watermelon   
Pretty much EVERY  Herb!! Don't forget the  Wildflowers!   

Arugula, Beets, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cantaloupes, Carrots, Cauliflower, celery, Chinese Cabbage, Collards, Sweet Corn, Cucumber, Eggplant, Endive, Kale, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Mustard, Okra, Bunching Onions, Peas-Snow or English, Southern Peas, Peppers, Potatoes, Sweet Potatoes, Radish, Spinach, Summer Squash, Winter Squash, Swiss Chard, Tomatoes, Turnips and Watermelon
Pretty much EVERY   Herb!! Don't forget the  Wildflowers!   

Amaranth, Arugula, Beets, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cantaloupes, Carrots, Cauliflower, celery, Chinese Cabbage, Collards, Sweet Corn, Cucumber, Eggplant, Endive, Kale, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Mustard, Bunching Onions, Peas-Snow or English, Peppers, Potatoes, Radish, Spinach, Summer Squash, Winter Squash, Swiss Chard, Tomatoes, Turnips and Watermelon
Pretty much EVERY   Herb!! Don't forget the  Wildflowers!   

Basil, Arugula, Beets, Pak Choy, Carrots, Swiss Chard, Collard greens, Corn, Cucumbers, Melon, Mustard Greens, Onions, Peas, Peppers, Potatoes, Radishes, Spinach, Summer Squash, Sunflower, Tomatoes, Turnips and Watermelon
Plant Herbs and Wildflowers
Transplant: Artichoke, Swiss Chard, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Peppers and Tomatoes

INDOOR planting for cooler areas

Sow Indoors: Artichoke, Asparagus, Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celery, Chard, Fava Bean, Kale, Leek, Lettuce, Onion, Pak Choy, Peas, Radicchio, Rhubarb, Spinach and HERBS!

Sow Indoors: Asparagus, Broccoli, Cabbage, Celery, Kale, Leek, Lettuce, Onion, Radicchio, Chives, Fennel, Parsley, Oregano, Sage, Tarragon and Thyme

Sow Indoors: Arugula, Artichoke, Asparagus, Cabbage, Celery, Endive, Kale, Leek, Lettuce, Onion, Radicchio, Scallion, Sorrel and Spinach.

Sow Indoors: Arugula, Broccoli, Celery, Swiss Chard, Eggplant, Endive, Fennel, Kale, Kohlrabi, Leek, Lettuce, Onions, Pak Choy, Peppers, Radicchio, Rhubarb Scallions, Tomatoes, Basil and Chives.

Sow Indoors: Artichoke, Arugula, Asparagus, Broccoli, Cabbage, Celery, Swiss Chard, Eggplant, Endive, Kale, Kohlrabi, Leek, Lettuce, Onions, Peppers, Radicchio, Sorrel, Spinach and Turnips.

Helpful Links to
Get you Started    
If you have additional questions please feel free to ask. 


Happy Planting,


Mary's Heirloom Seeds, P. O. Box 3763, Ramona, CA 92065

SOIL Recipes for Raised Bed Gardens Posted on 31 Jan 14:33 , 4 comments

I love our raised bed gardens!!!  There are so many benefits such as less water usage, almost zero weeding and best of all, LOTS of food produced in a small space.

I've had so many questions about what to use for Garden Soil.  The thing is, you can ask all of the "experts" and there is no absolute "right" way.  No one way works for everyone so below you will find some of the recommended recipes for gardens beds.  You'll also find my own recommendations based on what has worked for me.

Vegetable plants need loose, free-draining soil with readily available nutrients to produce abundantly. Each year's crop takes a bit of the nutrient base of the soil with it, so this must be returned on an annual basis to keep the garden productive.  This means adding amendments every year to maintain a healthy balance of nutrients.

First, a caution for the thrifty.  Be wary of advertisements for cheap or free bulk topsoil, as this material is generally scraped from construction sites and may be full of roots and rocks, making it unsuitable planting vegetables. Go to the landscape supply yard and look at the options to make sure you are getting a loose, clean, lightweight material that has compost already mixed in.

If you are building and filling  multiple beds, buying bagged soil isn't economical.  Call around your area and ask for bulk organic topsoil.  You might not be able to find "organic" soil so you can always ask for untreated soil.

1 - 4 foot by 4 foot raised bed takes 16 cubic feet of soil or approx 1/2 a cubic yard of soil

I saw one recipe that called for 1/3 Peat moss, 1/3 vermiculite and 1/3 compost.

This is not a recipe I use.  First, peat moss is on the acidic side.  Coconut Coir is neutral and a more sustainable addition to your garden.  Next, too much vermiculite will keep your soil from retaining moisture and nutrients.

Here's another recipe I found:
  • 3 parts compost
  • 1 part peat moss 
  • 1 part vermiculite

Here's my all time favorite from Rodales:
You want the kind that’s dark, rich, and loaded with microorganisms. Fill your beds with a mix of 50 to 60 percent good-quality topsoil and 40 to 50 percent well-aged compost. Before each new growing season, test your soil for pH and nutrient content. You can buy a kit at most home-improvement stores. If your test shows a need for additional nutrients like nitrogen and potassium, raise levels by working in amendments such as bone meal and kelp. Dress beds with an additional ½ inch of compost later in the growing season to increase organic matter and boost soil health. 

I use my own version of the above recipe.  I add coconut coir to each bed.  Depending on what I'm planting, if it needs lighter soil I'll add a bit of vermiculite.  Most of our beds are fed with our own DIY Organic Liquid Fertilizer Mix

We've been building up our own compost and amending the topsoil we purchased by the truckload several years ago.  If you are just getting started, you might have to shop around for a healthy option.

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Build Your Own Raised Beds and GROW! Posted on 31 Jan 13:22 , 3 comments

We're finally updating our Build Your Own Raised Bed tutorial!  Our first post was in 2015 when we moved to our new homestead and built a bunch of 8 foot by 4 foot beds.

We are STILL using these beds but we ended up putting gopher wire on the bottom to keep the gophers out.  We've also adapted this tutorial to make a few 4 foot by 4 foot beds for different projects or just because they were easier to handle.

Many of you have seen our updates on facebook.  We have expanded our growing area over the last week.  This place is HUGE!  We wanted to get growing fast but with the rocky ground (and gophers) at our new homestead, we decided to build raised beds.  Here's how we built...

Drill (required)
Circular saw (optional)  
Staple Gun (optional) 

Lumber & Supplies:
We purchased 2"x12"x16' untreated boards
untreated 4"x4" posts-Buy it 8 feet long and have it cut in 1 foot long posts
48" landscaping cloth (optional)
 3" deck screws from a local hardware shop.
It takes 1 and a 1/2 boards to make these 4X8 beds.  
That means 12 boards will make 8 beds.

A few thing I've learned:
Landscaping cloth works to keep the weeds out but NOT gophers.

If you have gophers or other burrowing pests, I highly recommend gopher wire or hardware cloth (it's not actually cloth).  Affix the wire to the bottom of the bed after you build the bed but before you fill with dirt

The 3 inch deck screws can be expensive but they are well worth it

I was told that the 4" post at each corner was overkill but I feel it is worth it.  Our raised beds are in great shape so far!

If you choose to build 4 foot by 4 foot beds, you can purchase pre-cut boards OR buy 1- 2X12X16 and have it cut into 4 foot boards.

If you prefer to make smaller beds then you will need to re-adjust length/quantity of boards. 

Screws: 32 
3 inch "Star Drive" deck screws
*These include a drill bit* 
The 2"x12" board were cut in 4' and 8' pieces.   
The 4"x4" posts were cut in 12" pieces.
If you don't have a circular saw (or want to make the boards easier to handle) I suggest having the people at the shop cut your boards. 
The 12" pieces of 4x4 post were attached  
to the ends of the 2x12x8 pieces with the  
3" deck screws: *4 screws per board per corner* 
32 screws total

After taking the 4' and 8' boards to the garden the 4' and 8' boards were assembled so that the 4' boards covered the ends of the 8' boards with their attached posts. 

This gave the assembled bed a 4'x8' OUTSIDE dimension gopher wire was attached to the bottom

Now, we have pictures of our 4 foot by 4 foot beds!

4 ft by 4 ft bed

4 ft by 4 ft bed with gopher wire

We used a staple gun to attach the gopher wire to each bed
The assembled bed was then placed gopher-wire side down and filled with good, organic soil with plenty of Organic Nutrients added to the beds.

4 X 4 growing Organic Radish

For 4 beds @ 4ft X 8ft we used about
5 cubic yards of soil.
Water the bed once it's filled with dirt and organic plant food.  We added more dirt once the soil compacted a bit.

If you have additional questions about getting started or would like more info please feel free to ask.  As always, I am happy to help.

If you'd like to check out some of our gardening tips, check out our fb page. 

Stay tuned for info on FILLING and maintaining these beds!

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MARY'S GARDEN GIVEAWAY Posted on 31 Jan 05:10 , 10 comments

We LOVE Giveaways!!!!  
Mary's Heirloom Seeds is sponsoring our first GIVEAWAY for 2017!  
Are you ready???

This is a super simple giveaway with loads of seeds!  This Giveaway will run from Tuesday, January 31st thru Sunday, February 5th and is open to residents of the US and Canada
We will pick One Lucky Winner on Monday, February 6th.


Over the years I've tried new varieties in my garden.  This seed combo pack includes many of my favorites!

Includes One packet of each:
-Amana's Orange Tomato                 
-German Giant Radish
-Anaheim Pepper                               -Detroit Dark Red Beet
-Jalapeno Pepper                               -Tom Thumb Lettuce
-Blue Lake Bush Bean                       -Purple-Top Whiteglobe Turnip
-5-Color Silverbeet Swiss Chard       -National Pickling Cucumber 

"In the Kitchen" Garden Herb Pack

This is a great starter kit for your Kitchen Herb Garden.  Includes a full-pack of the following varieties:
-Genovese Basil
-Dill Vierling

 24 Coconut Coir PelletsPlant Markers
Coconut coir growing medium comes from the coconut's fibrous husk (known as coir) that is bound together by lignin (known as pith).  With the addition of water, coir expands to an easy to work with growing medium. The addition of water increases the volume 3 to 9 times, depending on the packaging of products. This process results in a 100% organic, biodegradable growing medium, making it a natural and safe growth medium of choice for growers

Organic Alfalfa Meal (1 lb) plant food 
Derived from leguminous perennial alfalfa plant used for pasture and cover crop. Primary benefit of this pleasant smelling meal is increasing organic matter, although it is also a valuable plant-derived fertilizer.


Cultivator is 9" long.  Spade is 10" long.
Wood handles and leather loop on each to hang on pegboard hook

Mary's Heirloom Seeds is a "mom and pop" small business created out of a desire to help people become more sustainable and self-sufficient. Our customers know that we are a simple phone call or email away

We currently offer over 430 varieties of open-pollinated, non-gmo & non-hybrid, non-patented, untreated Heirloom Seeds.  Mary has signed the Safe Seed Pledge AND the Declaration of Seed Freedom.
Are you ready to enter the giveaway?

Giveaway is open to all Residents of the US and Canada.
Giveaway opens 1/31/2017 and ends Sunday, February 5th at Midnight.
All giveaway entrants will be added to Mary's Heirloom Seeds mailing list.
Your information is never sold and we never send spam emails.

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Pollinator Garden Challenge Posted on 26 Jan 20:28 , 0 comments

We recently shared a new report Bumble Bee Put on Endangered Species list.  Every day we encourage people to grow without the use of harmful pesticides and work with pollinators in the garden.

JOIN US in the Million Pollinator Garden Challenge!  Have you heard of the challenge?  

Mary's Heirloom Seeds is joining National Pollinator Garden Network CHALLENGE.  NPGN collectively represents approximately 800,000 gardeners, 10,000 schoolyard gardens and bring a baseline of a 250,000 registered pollinator gardens nationwide from across its five main founding organizations.

The Million Pollinator Garden Challenge (MPGC) is a nationwide call to action to preserve and create gardens and landscapes that help revive the health of bees, butterflies, birds, bats and other pollinators across America. We will move millions of individuals, kids and families outdoors and make a connection between pollinators and the healthy food people eat.

The focus of the NPGN is: to inspire individuals and community groups, institutions and the garden industry to create more pollinator habitat through sustainable gardening practices, habitat conservation and provide these groups the tools to be successful.

So how are we getting involved?  We already offer a SUPER unique election of Wildflower Seeds and Herb Seeds that are bee-friendly.  We grow organic and plant for the bees in our own gardens.

FIRST, we are adding more Bee-Friendly SEEDS at Mary's Heirloom Seeds!  **Listed below**

Next, we are offering 50% OFF every single variety listed under FLOWERS.  Yes, you read that right.

50% off Flower Seeds now thru February 10th when you use code  BEES50  at checkout in the appropriate box.

How does it work?

CLICK HERE for our huge selection of flower seeds.  At checkout, find the box marked "discount"

Type in BEES50

in the box and click "apply" to automatically calculate your saving.  If you have trouble using our discount code, please send an email to and we can help you locate the appropriate box.

If you haven't read our article Plant for Pollinators and Increase Crop Yields then NOW is the time.  Not only are you helping the precious bee population by planting bee-friendly varieties, you can boost your crops!!!

NEW Seed varieties added today:












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