As promised, we are continuing to share our month-to-month, regions specific Planting Guide from Mary's Heirloom Seeds! Can you believe it's almost September? It's still super hot and we're already planning out our FALL garden!
**Just a reminder** Organic Garlic is now available as a Pre-Order thru August 20th
Please read all of the ordering info before placing your order. Organic Garlic must be purchased in advance and we usually sell out by August/September
If you have warmer days and cold nights, consider planting greens in small containers to bring inside at night. Or, plant an indoor windowsill garden to harvest fresh greens such as European Mesclun Mix and Arugula.
RADISH is an excellent Fall crop. It is easy to grow and a quick harvest!
*UPDATED 1/24/17* Broccoli is a cool weather crop that generally thrives in cooler temperatures that do not exceed 30°C (86°F). The ideal temperature for cultivating broccoli is between 65 - 75°F. Broccoli should be planted in an open, sunny or partially shaded area. I like to soak seeds for up to 24 hours before planting. Sow broccoli seeds thinly, approximately 1/4 inch deep in rows that are 2 feet apart. Cover the seeds loosely with soil and water well. The seeds will germinate within about 10 days and then the seedlings can be thinned out to 1 foot apart (for Calabrese).
Spring Raab Rapini Broccoli is an excellent variety for shorter growing seasons and gardeners who want a quick-growing crop. 36 days. Broccoli Raab is also known as broccoli Asparago in Italy where it is prized for being a culinary delight. Spring Rapini doesn't grow like the broccoli most people think of. It doesn't have a central head, but rather it is treasured for its cluster of yellow buds. Matures very quickly from seed. Green shoots have a captivating flavor. Cut 6" pieces when the "broccolis" are the size of a quarter.
Calabrese is another fast-growing crop and some varieties will be ready to harvest from anything between 40 - 65 days. If sown in April or May, the broccoli should be ready to harvest from July onwards until November. In warmer climates, plant early in the year and again in Fall.
48 days. (Brassica oleracea) An Italian heirloom that was brought to America in the 1880s, 5-8" heads and many side shoots.
For the best results, broccoli should be planted after a crop of peas or beans, as these vegetables leave deposits of nitrogen in the soil, which is much needed by the broccoli for healthy growth and development.
75-100 days. The true and popular Italian heirloom with spiraling, apple-green heads that are so superbly flavored. Romanesco broccoli heads are really densely packed clusters of lime green flower buds that develop in the center of a leafy rosette. This variety is widely grown in northern Italy.
Harvest the broccoli when the side florets start to loosen slightly but the main head is still very compact. Cut at the base of the stalk, so that the main head is removed.
Fertilizer Requirements for Broccoli Broccoli plants are heavy feeders and will do well with a dose of fertilizer every couple of weeks. Use a well balanced fertilizer for best results. This will give the plants enough energy to get large enough to support full heads of broccoli.
If you are interested in growing broccoli organically, you can work some compost or well-rotted manure into the soil before planting. You can also use organic products like Mary's Organic 3-4-4, Blood Meal or fish emulsions to fertilize your broccoli plants.
Nitrogen deficiency: If the bottom leaves turn yellow and the problem continues toward the top of the plant, the plants need a high nitrogen (but low phosphorus) fertilizer or bloodmeal. Blood meal is a quick Nitrogen fix for yellowing leaves.
Companion plants for Broccoli include: Basil, Bush Beans, Cucumber, Dill, Garlic, Hyssop, Lettuce, Marigold, Mint, Nasturtium, Onion, Potato, Radish, Rosemary, Sage, Thyme and Tomato.
Celery, onions and potatoes improve broccolis' flavor when planted near it. Broccoli loves plenty of calcium. Pairing it with plants that need little calcium is a good combination such as nasturtiums and beets. Put the nasturtiums right under the broccoli plants. Herbs such as rosemary, dill and sage help repel pests with their distinct aromas.
Cabbage loopers: Small holes on the leaves between the veins mean small green caterpillars are present. Look at the undersides of the leaves.
Harvesting Tips from The Old farmer's Almanac
In terms of timing: Harvest broccoli when the buds of the head are firm and tight before the heads flower. If you do see yellow petals, harvest immediately.
For best taste, harvest in the morning before the soil heats up.
Cut heads from the plant. taking at least 6 inches of stem.
Cut the stalk of the main head at a slant, about 5 to 8 inches below the head.
Most varieties have side-shoots that will continue to develop after the main head is harvested. You can harvest from one plant for many weeks, in some cases, from spring to fall, if you’re summer isn’t too hot.
Store broccoli in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. If you wash before storing, make sure to dry it thoroughly.
Have you ever added Oyster Shell Fertilizer to your soil? Wondering WHY we add calcium? Well here ya go! Calcium is a component of plant cell walls, and it’s needed for enzyme formation and nitrate uptake. Oyster Shell is ground up into a powder and used as a natural and organic source of Calcium! Organic calcium can also be used to help neutralize excessively acidic soils, which is especially important when you’re growing green, leafy vegetables like lettuce and spinach, or cruciferous vegetables like cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and kale.
Calcium carbonate is used to help prevent the spread of various diseases, such as powdery mildew, black spot, and blossom end rot. Other benefits of calcium include, protection from heat stress, increases metabolic functions in plant cells, leading to a greater intake of other nutrients such as nitrogen and phosphorus. Natural, organic source of calcium is used to correct Ca deficiencies and raise pH in acidic soils.
RADISH! If you grew spindly radish or your radish did not form a "bulb," that usually means that your soil in calcium deficient. This is an indicator that other plants might be suffering as well.
Organic calcium sources include dolomite lime, calcite, ground oyster shell (oyster shell flour), and crushed eggshells.
We eat eggs here but not near enough to supply our gardens with calcium. So we substitute with Ground Oyster Shell.
TOMATOES
If you experienced issues with "Blossom End Rot" then adding calcium to your soil might greatly improve your harvest! Blossom End Rot: "This funky-sounding plague is a disease in tomatoes due to a calcium deficiency (or a watering issue). It manifests itself as a watery spot near the blossom end (the bottom, the butt, etc) when the tomato has begun to develop. Eventually, the spot will spread like a cancer. And it will be game over for that fruit."
The black spot will spread, eventually rotting the entire tomato
SQUASH can also be affected by calcium deficiency.
PEPPERS
Calcium plays a pivotal role in the development of cells in plants. Bell pepper plants need calcium to produce fruits that have thick, sturdy walls. The thick walls are good for the health of the plant, as they are better able to resist rot and other diseases. Well developed peppers are also good for you, as the fruit has a better taste and flavor.
Blossom End Rot is a sign of calcium deficiency in Peppers as well.
Are you seeing the pattern here? Instead of waiting until you see a sign of distress in your plants, Plan ahead and boost your soil health.
This is a very critical part of any garden plan. To avoid diseases or issues you had previously, do not plant the same fall or winter vegetable crops in the same location as they were planted the previous year or the summer season. It is important to note that if the same crop is planted in the same location, not only can the soil be weakened through continual loss of the same nutrients but the plants can also attract the same insects and diseases to that part of the garden.
FALL Garden Bed of Beets, Swiss Chard and Borage
It's only August but it's never too early to start thinking about our FALL Garden!
Even in September it’s not too late to plant a fall crop. Vegetables like broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, kale, radishes and peas are hearty decisions for climates that are likely to encounter frost. Vegetables like beets, carrots, cauliflower, and other lettuces can also tolerate a light frost and will still yield a good harvest if you get them started in early October.
Something I read that really stuck with me, "The gardener feeds the plant, the organic gardener feeds the soil."
If you plan on planting a fall garden, a little planning can go a long way.
Pull up old or dying plants. Add disease-free debris to your compost pile/bin. Do not compost diseased plants as this could further spread disease.
REPLENISH YOUR SOIL!
Whether you plan to let your garden rest after Summer gardening or you plan to plant fall crops, giving back to your soil is important.
Adding fresh compost or essential minerals and nutrients is a must for healthy soil.
**UPDATE**
RADISH! If you grew spindly radish or your radish did not form a "bulb," that usually means that your soil in calcium deficient. This is an indicator that other plants might be suffering as well.
TOMATOES If you experienced issues with "Blossom End Rot" then adding calcium to your soil might greatly improve your harvest! Blossom End Rot: "This funky-sounding plague is a disease in tomatoes due to a calcium deficiency (or a watering issue). It manifests itself as a watery spot near the blossom end (the bottom, the butt, etc) when the tomato has begun to develop. Eventually, the spot will spread like a cancer. And it will be game over for that fruit."
Alfalfa Meal Tea and Kelp Meal Tea are both excellent liquid fertilizers you can make at home. These are readily-available nutrients to boost soil health.
As a garden fertilizer, alfalfa meal is used to increase organic matter in the soil and makes an excellent fast and effective soil conditioner. The high amounts of carbohydrates and protein encourage beneficial soil microbes and earthworms that are responsible for quickly breaking down the nutrients and making them available for use by the plants
BONUS: Sprinkle a small handful of kelp meal early in the growing season around and on the base of squash plants to help deter squash bugs. Do this every 10 days where squash bugs are a problem.
Mycorrhizae is a fungi that has a beneficial relationship with a plants roots. When Mycorrhizal fungi comes into contact with a plants roots it begins to colonize, or multiply, on the roots and begins to spread out into the surrounding soil. These strands of mycorrhizal fungi effectively become an extension of the roots and can increase the absorbtion area of a plants root system by 10 to 1,000 times. This allows the root system a more efficient intake of nutrients and water.
Azomite rock dust is a naturally mined volcanic rock composed of over 70 minerals and trace elements that are essential for optimal plant health. The rock formation in Utah from which Azomite is mined was formed when volcanic ash merged with sea water. This mixture of volcanic ash and sea water created a unique source of trace minerals and elements that most soils are void of. Just like humans, plants require many minerals to reach peak health and vigor.
For a complete breakdown of Organic Nutrients, read our article
FALL is fast approaching! Some of you are thinking about your favorite fall crops. Those of you in warmer climates like South Florida are gearing up for big-time planting season.
The key to successful winter gardening is knowing the average date of the first frost in your region (for example late October in the Pacific Northwest). You then plant your winter crops early enough to let them reach their full maturity before the first frost.
Use your FIRST frost date then count back to determine when to plant each batch of Fall crops.
Approx maturity 30 days. **Plant now to Mid September** Succession planting is a great way to maximize garden production! This is the practice of planting in intervals. For example, plant 2 rows of Radish every 2 weeks thru Fall. This will give you a steady harvest of radish throughout Fall and winter instead of all at once.
Try successive plantings of quick growing items like leaf lettuce, beets, spinach and radishes.
Don't be afraid to try planting some crops later than recommended. While it is a bit risky, the rewards are definitely worth the risk.
Harvest over-wintered carrots early in spring before they start to go to seed and the roots get woody.
The Chinese Cabbages and Mustards also grow especially well in cold frames. They taste great, too.
Parsnips are best when pulled in January or early February after the heaviest frosts have turned them the sweetest.
CROP ROTATION
This is a very critical part of any garden scheme. Do not plant the same fall or winter vegetable crops in the same location as they were planted the previous year or the summer season. It is important to note that if the same crop is planted in the same location, not only will the soil be weakened through continual loss of the same nutrients but the plants will also attract the same insects and diseases to that part of the garden.
It's almost December so we're finally posting our planting guide for Florida. If this is your first time reading our blog, we offer a monthly planting guide for the entire US throughout the year at Mary's Heirloom Seeds. December means more planting in Florida! I've split the state in 3 sections to offer a more accurate planting guide. If you have additional questions please ask. Enjoy!
There are a few vegetables that are perennials that, under the right conditions, continue to grow all year long. Some for many years after the initial planting.
Find out how to get the most from your garden. Don't miss our NEW SEEDS announcement below!
Grow artichoke (Cynara scolymus) in full sun and moist, well-drained soil. Artichokes require ample, consistent moisture for best growth. They survive drought but don't produce as well in dry conditions.
Plant 24-36 inches apart in rows about 36 inches apart. Amend the soil prior to planting with 2 inches of compost. Fertilize monthly with a high-nitrogen fertilizer. When growing artichoke as a perennial, amend the soil around plants each spring with a 1- to 2-inch layer of compost.
Artichoke plants should produce for about 3 - 5 years. At that time, you should notice side shoots at the base of the plant. You can lift, divide and replant the new shoots.
This hardy crop lasts for decades in the garden and is one of the first vegetables that can be harvested in spring. Plant asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) in full sun and moist, well-drained soil. Mix a 2-inch-thick layer of compost into the planting site. Because asparagus is long-lived, it's important to adequately prepare the soil before planting.
In the second year after planting, harvest for only two weeks. By the third year, harvest for the usual five to eight weeks. Start harvesting when the spears are 1/2 inch in diameter
This sharp-flavor vegetable is technically a hardy biennial, meaning it grows for two years. It is a type of chicory and is related to Belgian endive. Dark red leaves with white veins form into a tightly clumped head that resembles cabbage or romaine lettuce. Grow radicchio (Cichorium intybus) in fertile, well-drained soil in full sun. Sow seeds in spring or autumn, then harvest the inner heads in late fall when they are firm and have the deepest color of white and red, leaving the roots in the ground to produce another crop.
Though many people treat it like a fruit, rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) is actually a hardy perennial vegetable (because you eat the stems, not the plant's fruits). Plant rhubarb in full sun and moist, well-drained soil. Locate it where it won't be disturbed because it will be productive for many years.
Apply a balanced fertilizer in early spring. After harvest, spread a 2-inch layer of compost around plants. When the stalks become thin, usually after six to eight years, dig and divide the plant in spring or fall. Leave first-year plants unharvested. By the third year, harvest all stalks larger than 1 inch wide for as long as eight weeks. Use only the stems; the leaves contain oxalic acid and are poisonous.
To grow sorrel, sow seeds directly in the garden in full sun and average soil 6-8 inches apart in rows 2 feet apart. Established plants may be divided.
The greatest bloom is usually observed in the indeterminate, with fruit and seed production starting in the year round and continuing until year round. Leaves are retained year to year. The Eggplant has a short life span relative to most other plant species and a rapid growth rate. At maturity, the typical Eggplant will reach up to 4 feet high, with a maximum height at 20 years of 0 inches.
The young leaves and stems of this 6-foot-tall perennial are an excellent substitute for celery in springtime soups. The seeds and roots are also edible, and the umbel flowers attract beneficial insects. Lovage thrives in average garden soil, in sun or partial shade.
There are two main types of carrot - early and maincrop, which also come in long and short root varieties. As their name suggests, early varieties are planted earlier on in the year and take 12 weeks to mature, whilst maincrop varieties are planted a few months later.
Soil conditions for growing carrots
The ideal soil conditions to cultivate your carrots would be a light, sandy, well-drained earth with a slightly acidic pH balance of 6.5. Planting should start once the soil reaches a temperature of 65°F (18°C).
To get the best results, carrots should be cultivated in a sunny spot that receives plenty of direct sunlight. The seedlings will be able to cope with some shade and even a small amount of light frost, yet lots of sunshine is always the best for this crop.
Soil preparation
The soil should be prepared approximately 2 weeks before you are due to plant the seeds. Dig an area of about 1ft (12 inches) deep and work the soil so that its texture is even, fine and crumbly. Remove all debris, particularly any stones, which can cause deformation of the carrot's shape, and work in some fully rotted organic matter, which will keep the soil loose and moist, perfect growing conditions for the carrot. For early varieties planting will take place in mid-February and therefore you should prepare the soil at the beginning of the month, whilst maincrop varieties can be grown from late April. One week before planting you can add a general fertilizer, one that does not contain high levels of nitrogen, as this could cause the seeds to grow multiple roots. In most cases, plenty of compost or peat moss is enough for carrots to grow well.
Thinly plant the tiny carrot seeds in drills that are about ½ inch deep. Drop a few seeds into the soil at every inch. The rows should be approximately 8 inches (20cm) apart. Cover the seeds with fine soil and apply a very thin layer of straw or shredded bark. Germination takes place within 15 - 20 days.
Thinning the seedlings
The seedlings should be carefully thinned out when they have sprouted and reached a height of approximately 1 inch (2.5cm). Space them out so that they are first 2 inches (5cm) and then 5 inches (12cm) apart. Thin the seedlings at night, as this is when the carrot fly are absent, and destroy all trimmings by either burning, burying or binning them. Ensure that the roots of the seedlings do not suffer too much disturbance, as this can affect their growth. Pat down the soil after thinning, as carrot fly like to lay their eggs in loose soil. Apply a layer of mulch about ¾ inch thick once the plants have been established.
The soil should be kept moist at all times but carrot seedlings do not need to be deluged in water. Water when the soil is dry and keep the soil moist and the plants will be happy!
Fertilizing the carrot seedlings
Do not over-fertilize the carrot plants. Carrots do not need high levels of nitrogen to grow well and so use fertilizers that contain nitrogen sparingly. In most cases, the use of plenty well rotted organic material is enough.
Harvesting the carrots
Early crop varieties will be ready to harvest some time in June, whilst maincrop varieties can be harvested in August. The carrots should be removed from the ground as soon as the foliage begins to shrivel up and wilt and when the carrot has turned a deep orange. Gently loosen the roots with a fork and then remove the vegetable by hand. Harvesting should be carried out at night, for the same reasons that thinning of the seedlings is done at this time of day. Store the newly dug carrots in a box that has a layer of sand on the bottom and place in a cool, dark and dry location.
Carrot pests
The carrot fly is the main insect that can cause problems when cultivating this crop. It lays its eggs in any soil surrounding the base of the plant that is loose. The eggs turn into maggots, which then attack the plant and destroy it. Ensure that trimmings are disposed of and that soil around the plants is firm.
Companion Plants with Carrots Their pals are leaf lettuce, onions and tomatoes. Plant dill and parsnips away from carrots. Flax produces an oil that may protect root vegetables like carrots from some pests. One drawback with tomatoes and carrots: tomato plants can stunt the growth of your carrots but the carrots will still be of good flavor.
Carrot disease
The carrot plant may be prone to a number of fungal diseases. Look out for signs of wilted or spotted leaves and any type of irregular markings. Too much water, sun or nitrogen will also affect the plants negatively.
I hope you have enjoyed another educational article. if you have additional questions, please leave a comment below or send an email to mary@marysheirloomseeds.com
70 days. (Brassica oleracea capitata) Easy to grow, they are very productive. Small pointed heads have a mild flavor and mature without splitting. 2-3lb.,dark green outside and creamy light green inside. This very early variety was sold commercially by Peter Henderson in the late 1860's.
Cabbage is best grown in a temperate climate, and should be planted in an open and sunny spot that can either be in full sun or partial shade.
Soil Conditions
Most types of cabbage require a well-draining, light - medium soil with a neutral pH of about 6.5 - 7.0.
When growing cabbage, the soil should be prepared well in advance, especially if you are enriching the soil with organic matter. If you are sowing the cabbage seeds in spring, prepare the soil in autumn by digging in plenty of well-rotted compost or manure.
Sow the seeds at 1/4 - ½ inch deep. If you are direct sowing, leave 6 inches between rows. When seedlings reach a height 4 - 6 inches and have 5 or 6 true leaves, they will be ready to transplant.
It is best to water in the evening, the day before you are due to transplant, and then plant the seedlings 12-18 inches apart for spring cabbage. Allow approximately 1 foot between rows. Make sure that you firm down the soil around the plants.
45 days. Pak Choy is a non-heading leaf type Chinese cabbage that produces large, succulent, nearly round, smooth, glossy green leaves with snow white stalks. Pak Choy is very cold hardy and grows over an extended period of time. The leaves grow 8 to 10 inches long. Harvest the whole head or use the outer leaves so they just keep coming! Hoe around the plants to remove all weeds and apply a mulch to suppress weeds from appearing. Mulch will also retain moisture, which is extremely important during the hot weather. The cabbage plants must not be allowed to dry out, as it will affect their growth.
Companion Plants for Cabbage
Celery, dill, onions and potatoes are good companion plants. Celery improves growth and health. Clover interplanted with cabbage has been shown to reduce the native cabbage aphid and cabbageworm populations by interfering with the colonization of the pests and increasing the number of predatory ground beetles. Plant Chamomile with cabbage as it Improves growth and flavor. Cabbage does not get along with strawberries, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, rue, grapes, lettuce and pole beans.
Harvesting Cabbage is easy. Simply lift the whole vegetable from the ground with a garden fork or spade, or cut the stem, just above the lowest leaves of the plant.
Baby Bok Choy: 33 days. Irresistible baby pak choy cabbage. Great for salads and stir fry. Pak Choy is fast growing and great for winter-time greenhouse growing.
"Chinese cabbage, often called Chinese leaves in supermarkets are the odd one out in the cabbage family. They look more like a cos lettuce than a cabbage for starters.
The cultivation method is completely different than conventional cabbage as well, they do not like root disturbance and usually would be sown in situ rather than being transplanted.
Cultivation of Chinese Cabbage
Like the other brassicas they like a rich soil with a high pH - neutral at least..
Sow about 3 or 4 seeds at 30cm spacing each way, usually in May although some fast growing varieties can go in as late as early August and thin to the strongest seedling. Harvest is from late September to min-November."
All of the seeds listed are open-pollinated, non-gmo & non-hybrid, non-patented, untreated, heirloom garden seeds. Mary has signed the Safe Seed pledge.
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September 30, 2015
A few things before we get started.
Mary from Mary's Heirloom Seeds will be LIVE on Wolf Spirit Radio this Friday, October 3rd from 4pm-6pm PST with host Joyce Wheeler.
The topic of the show is Organic Gardening and we'll also discuss seeds and related topics. There will be live call-ins and chat room questions. Join us!
Next, we've added GIFT CARDS at Mary's Heirloom Seeds. We've had several requests lately for gift certificates so we've updated our website. The drop down menu will give you denomination options.
**Just a reminder for those of you with pest issues, especially tomato hornworms and squash borers** Companion Planting is very important for your organic garden. Plant BORAGE with tomatoes and Nasturtiums with squash
FLORIDA Gardeners, we have split the state into 3 sections. Click the links for complete details
IMPORTANT: If you live in cool/colder climates but are growing in a greenhouse or use a hoop to cover your crops, you are able to grow more varieties and for a longer period. Read Mary's Cool Weather Crops
Southwest
Arugula, Calabrese Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Chinese Cabbage, Cauliflower, KALE, Kohlrabi, Leeks, Lettuce, Bunching Onions, Radicchio, Radishes, Rutabaga, Sorrel, Spinach, Swiss Chard and Turnips HERBS: Basil, Cilantro, Dill, Fennel and Poppy
Southern Interior
Arugula, Calabrese Sprouting Broccoli, Chinese Cabbage, Cilantro, Fennel, Kale, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Radish, Rutabaga, Sorrel, Spinach and Swiss Chard *Turnips if you have a later frost date* Read about Cool Weather Crops
Pacific Northwest
Broccoli, Cabbage, Kale, Mustard and Turnips can withstand a touch of frost and do well during Fall. Brussels Sprouts, Kale, Parsnips, Collards and Artichokes can actually improve with a bit of frost. RADISH is an excellent Fall crop. It is easy to grow and a quick harvest!
Mid-Atlantic Northwest
If you have warmer days and cold nights, consider planting greens in small containers to bring inside at night. Or, plant a windowsill garden to harvest fresh greens such as European Mesclun Mix and Arugula.
RADISH is an excellent Fall crop. It is easy to grow and a quick harvest!
New England & Maritime Canada
If you have warmer days and cold nights, consider planting greens in small containers to bring inside at night. Or, plant a windowsill garden to harvest fresh greens such as European Mesclun Mix and Arugula.
RADISH is an excellent Fall crop. It is easy to grow and a quick harvest!
North Central & Rockies
If you have warmer days and cold nights, consider planting greens in small containers to bring inside at night. Or, plant a windowsill garden to harvest fresh greens such as European Mesclun Mix and Arugula.
RADISH is an excellent Fall crop. It is easy to grow and a quick harvest!
ALASKA
If you have warmer days and cold nights, consider planting greens in small containers to bring inside at night. Or, plant a windowsill garden to harvest fresh greens such as European Mesclun Mix and Arugula.
Broccoli, Cabbage, Kale, Mustard and Turnips can withstand a touch of frost and do well during Fall. Brussels Sprouts, Kale, Parsnips, Collards and Artichokes can actually improve with a bit of frost. RADISH is an excellent Fall crop. It is easy to grow and a quick harvest!
HAWAII Arugula, Basil, Beets , Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Cilantro, Endive, Kale, Kohlrabi, Head Lettuce, Leaf Lettuce, Onion, Peas, Radicchio, Radish, Rutabaga, Sorrel, Spinach, Swiss Chard and Turnips HERBS: Basil, Cilantro, Dill, Fennel and Poppy
If you have additional questions please feel free to ask.
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